Marni, Magliano and M1992 reimagine classic menswear
today Jun 17, 2019
Milan Fashion Week Men's saw a return to formal-wear on Saturday, as a number of designers reintroduced the classic suit and tie to their collections, each with their own individual twist.
Marni: the art of camouflage
At Marni, Francesco Risso had enrolled his youthful models into a tropical guerrilla army, tapping into the exotic jungle vibe that seems to have inspired a number of Milanese couturiers this season, including Dolce & Gabbana and Niel Barrett. Here the result was maxi-check suits, two and three-button jackets with rolled-up sleeves worn over short-sleeved shirts, and knits and jumpers paired with comfortable wide-legged trousers with slits at the bottom, all of which was alternated with sportier, more hybrid camouflage outfits.
To take on the tropical jungle, the models opted for four-pocket jackets, which were either tucked into their trousers or worn wide open, and which were also shown in a short-sleeved version. These looks were offered up in all manner of camouflage prints, from military khaki to reimagined super-sized patterns and animal print. Elsewhere, flowers bloomed through the khaki, while other fabrics featured cutouts simulating foliage.
For next summer, the designer mixed myriad menswear materials, creating puzzle-like suits that subverted the serious image of the traditional men's wardrobe once and for all.
M1992: 60s playboys
It was all about attitude at M1992, where rebellious 50s rockers jostled with 60s playboys in their impeccable suits and their cable-knit jumpers, which were nonchalantly draped over their shoulders or tied around their waists.
The rockers took to the runway in leather jackets wrapped in heavy chains, black shirts printed with pin-up girls (the same ladies that appeared on Dolce & Gabbana's shirts this season) or in colourful boiler suits. For the evening, they lit up with rhinestones, donning a silvery jacket and coat .
The playboys, on the other hand, wore ties without exception, all flaunting these accessories made by Neapolitan specialist Marinella. Very chic indeed, they wore short low-waisted trousers that revealed the tops of their boxers and flared at the ankles to show their white socks. Others wore wide granddad-style shorts with fine stripes in gold thread and boat shoes with silvered soles.
For a final touch of eccentricity, some models had strapped a tablet computer to their chest like a bulletproof vest, while others had cut their jackets in two, wearing one half and carrying the other in the opposite hand.
Magliano: always chic
It was a bit of a change of pace with Luca Magliano, who took his inspiration for this season from the figure of the exile, for whom he conceived a nomadic wardrobe. Far from home, often short on resources, Magliano's exile had visibly had to make do, but never lost his sense of fun and sophistication.
The models may have worn sandals on their feet, but suits were de rigueur, and here too they were finished with ties. Satin shirts were tucked into vaguely retro pleated trousers, which were paired with thigh-length maxi-jackets. It didn't seem to matter that some of these were missing their sleeves, the models just wore them as gilets.
When they didn't have jackets, these stylish exiles improvised with a lining. And as for the frayed spencer with half missing – no problem! It was simply tied around the model's waist with two pieces of fabric which were stretched out like ribbons. One coat featured hooks – practical for transporting pots, pans and whatever else these nomads might need, while strings served as the base for shell necklaces or shoulder straps from which to hang a pouch or a glasses case. Elsewhere, a terry cloth bathrobe was worn over a chic suit instead of a coat. Just right for a midnight swim.
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