Accessories in Paris break the mold this season
today Mar 8, 2019
The creative driving force of many luxury brands is not fashion shows, but accessories. We caught up with three great accessories houses during the Paris fashion season to see their latest objects of affection. Where one message was paramount: break the mold.
Alexandre Birman revisits modern art
Signor Birman is Brazil’s most famous shoemaker. He has managed to create a marque with the exuberance of Brazil, though without the usual tropical baggage.
Like the great architects of Brazil – Oscar Niemeyer, Lina Bo Bardi and Marcio Kogan – Birman concentrates on pure lines and polished finishes. His shoes tend to make a lady sizzle yet soar. This season, in the garden of the Ritz, he showed fabulous knee boots in contrasting jet black and classic python – vertically dissected by a slim line of high-strength, clear plastic.
"For our Fall 2019 collection we revisited modern art from the '40s and '50s. We explored different architectural methods and shapes that were prevalent during this time period. At the beginning of the brand we were mainly focused on 100mm and higher but in recent seasons and years we have gravitated to more versatile heel heights that exude functionality and comfort," explained the designer.
Robert Clergerie riffs on its heritage
The house of Robert Clergerie has revived its famous archive metallic heel – a great brushed steel retro futurist curve. Call it Acier des Alpes, or Alpine steel, since Clergerie hails from the foothills of Europe’s greatest mountain range.
Designer David Tourniaire-Beauciel also dreamed up some great new boots, part of Clergerie’s collaboration with Both, the Paris brand that has created a whole new style using heat-pressed natural liquid rubber to coat footwear.
Barrie breaks ground with its logo; plans London flagship
A busy moment at Barrie, which presented its first menswear collection. This included a striking new denim jacket, made in the Scottish brand’s creamy cashmere.
Guys can also pick up the new logo sweaters from the Highland label; two large 'B's sandwiching the most famous classic Scottish emblem, the thistle.
Barrie, part of the extended Chanel group, is also in the midst of relatively rapid expansion. It plans to open a new flagship in London in Mayfair this summer.
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